Approximately.ĩ) Getting the pipe in to the housing is the first tricky part. This will approximately locate the far end of the pipe at the opening on the turbo. Use the part as a reference before assembly to get a sense of where you will be looking/working.ħ) Reconnect the sensor wire to the charge pipe before putting the pipe in place.Ĩ) Loosely thread the mounting screw for the charge pipe- the one that goes through the wiring harness bracket. Yep, prepare to get intimate with your engine.Ĥ) Place several thick towels/padding on the front edge of the engine compartment, passengers side of the radiator and the leading edge of the block, about the oil filter assembly location.ĥ) Have a ~12mm wrench with a closed end to loop over the lever on the lock ring.Ħ) I ran the boroscope down the firewall side of the block close to the passenger side corner- basically straight down at the connection. You may be able to get around it without removal.ģ) Set the boroscope on the right strut tower, roughly, facing the left side so you can see it with your head resting on the valve cover. Mine was because I was replacing those gaskets too.
#V8 VALVE COVER DESK LAMP INSTALL#
Get a feel for it before trying to install the tube.Ģ) I think having the intake manifold out the way may be helpful. There is a positive click when it is in place. I will post a video at some point but here is the summary for getting the air pipe back on the turbo.ġ) The lockring will rotate from open = passenger side to closed = driver's side. I reinstalled the fuel rail, injectors, and coils before this step. Absolutely want this unless you have skinny arms and smallish hands. Whomever wrote these instructions had no clue about this part as those bolts are nearly impossible to reach and this step is not needed.Īutozone has a boroscope loaner- borrow it or buy one. You need something with mass that can slide straight in line with the bolt/injector. I used a weight lifting bar collar to make the slide because I was not having any luck using an adjustable wrench as a hammer on it.
If you need to make an injector puller you can make one with a M12x1.5 coupler nut, a 4"? M12x1.5 shoulder bolt, a ~1" washer and a ~2" washer.
Not sure 3 and 4 really needed to come out. No need to remove the vacuum line that runs across the front of the cover, there is enough play to get it out of the way.
#V8 VALVE COVER DESK LAMP ZIP#
Zip tie the wires, etc to the A/C line bracket to get them out of the way. The pipe has the blow-by vent hose attached and that piece will probably crack/break so go ahead and have a new one on hand.
I used a ratcheting 1/4" disc to get it out once it was loose. You'l want a fine ratchet as there isn't much room to move. That screw head points towards the fender and you can get a 1/4" socket with a T20 bit on it by putting your right arm along the engine near the wiring harness bracket and your left hand can come down from the top to apply pressure to the backet of the ratchet head. There is a single T20 screw holding it in place, no clamp at the bottom. Unfortunately the plastic on mine was brittle and broke right at those tabs. Make sure you check out the tabs at the bottom end of the tube- there are three tabs that look like they are just a partial turn to secure. Removing the air pipe is easy though reinstalling may be a hassle. Just a suggestion but I've read it is worth replacing that cover at !00,000 mi so I did. ECS Tuning has a complete kit with the gasket installed, new bolts, etc. Go ahead and buy a new cover, new PCV and hose.
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